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They say that an artist has a lifetime to create their first album, but only a few years to write and record their second.

In the restaurant world, when that metaphorical first album happens to be an era-defining establishment like Timberyard in Edinburgh’s Old Town, it’s safe to say that any follow-up could expect to be met sky-high anticipation and close scrutiny.

Thankfully, Montrose has exceeded even the loftiest expectations placed upon it. From critics to guests alike, praise has been heaped on the restaurant’s relaxed and friendly front of house style, its punchy seasonal menus inspired by the seasons and Scotland’s natural larder, and the passionate attention to detail that you only get from a truly independent, family-run restaurant.

Opened at the tail end of 2023, the restaurant set up shop in a 19th-century former inn moments from Holyroodhouse, a split-level dream of an eatery with a lively, casual wine bar on the ground floor and an ambitious restaurant upstairs that mirrors its sibling’s culinary ethos.

In addition to an array of impressive dishes composed by newly appointed Executive Chef Bart Stratfold (preceded by chef Moray Murphy-Lamb and opening chef James Murray), plenty of praise has also been set aside for the restaurant’s wine program, overseen by sommelier and wine buyer Jo Radford. 
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In this area, Radford has form – as well as overseeing the cellars and lists for both Montrose and Timberyard (frequently namechecked as one of the finest contemporary lists in Europe), his travels have taken him across Europe and Australia and he’s received a grounding in hospitality from the get-go, with parents Lisa and Andrew running operations at The Atrium and Blue before founding Timberyard in 2012, earning their first Michelin star in 2023.

That said, the past few months have been a time for pause and growth for Jo Radford.

“It's been a bit of a journey with Montrose, because I think for some time, we weren't entirely confident in our identity, and these last few months, with a few key players leaving, we've been able to tighten up our identity.”

"Our head chef left; there have been big changes in front of house management; and I think there were aspirations that weren't always able to be met from both the operators and the chef when we were trying to achieve things that didn't make sense in that space,” he continues.
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So, what was it that didn’t make sense, and what changes needed to be made?
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Growing pains in a restaurant are not a novel phenomenon, and how a business reacts to a myriad of factors – their guests’ expectations, the demands of sourcing and staffing, and the operational headwinds of a febrile economy, to name a few – determine not only its identity but its survival.

One of the challenges that Radford notes is the soul searching that’s been brought about from opening a wine bar in a city that hasn’t quite adopted the format into mainstream dining culture. When you’re opening in a town that loves its spirits, how do you adapt your vision for the local crowd? “Edinburgh has struggled with wine bars for a while. But there haven't been many that have really nailed that fusion of food and drink,” he says. 

“We always had this idea that the wine bar would be a late-night spot as well. And it's funny, because Edinburgh just doesn't have that culture of late night and wine. It's almost like the wine becomes the precursor to the evening out – people come, and they maybe have some food or even have some drinks before going out after.

It was a lesson in understanding the city’s rhythm, and to that end, Radford has encouraged uptake with events at Montrose that could see a celebrated winemaker come by to raise a glass to a particular region, or by bringing in DJ friends to play some records. “Those sorts of events do tend to encourage and acknowledge that wine can be something to be enjoyed in that later night or slightly more jovial, buzzy party atmosphere,” he reasons, noting that while an international crowd initially understood the team’s vision, the proportion of locals popping in for a drink and food has grown steadily.

Radford also notes that offering both tasting and a la carte menus on both floors, instead of separating them into distinct areas, has aided in public understanding and offering operational flexibility, while also creating more business for the restaurant as well.

“Not only does it help from a staffing point of view in terms of costs, but it also helps in terms of an atmosphere and vibe point of view,” he says. “Having two tables upstairs and three tables downstairs felt quite sparse, but being able to offer both menus on the one ground floor enabled us to have those five tables all in the one space, and automatically it just feels like a more energetic place to be in.” 
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As well as playing his part in creating a culinary legacy with his family’s restaurants, Radford brings a unique set of perspectives to the table, some of which have the potential to shape not just the path of Timberyard and Montrose, but also the city’s culinary landscape.
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Radford has been sober for six years, noting that “wine and alcohol, in general, was just a stepping stone into other things.” While he still tastes with the aid of a spittoon, his approach to sobriety has allowed him to remain connected to the wine industry while sharpening his palate. “I feel like the detail and the nuance and my palate in relation to those elements has never been stronger,” he says. “And that's probably because in very basic terms, I'm looking after myself a bit better.”

He's also generous in articulating the respect that alcohol deserves, even – or especially – among those working in the trade. “It's a funny one. Even from day one of my sobriety, I spoke about it very openly, and I think it's a super important thing to speak about in the industry that we are in because so many people are struggling with things,” he says. “And perhaps aren't willing or able or at the stage yet to address it. And I think by talking about it a lot, it helps to normalise it and helps to remove that stigma.”

What does that mean for the average guest at the restaurants?
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“It's a real pleasure to be able to think about [wine] in terms of an asset for the business and how we can use it to really heighten people's experiences at both venues,” he says. “We've got slightly more scope at Timberyard in terms of the way people engage with wine from an extended tasting menu and pairing point of view. And then at Montrose, it's about stripping away the pretence and making it a little more fun.”

Part of the pleasure at Timberyard and Montrose has always been the approachability of each restaurant’s offering, despite the ambition and fine tuning that’s constantly taking place behind the scenes. This, in part, is a credit to the family’s deep roots in Edinburgh’s restaurant culture and their understanding of how transformative great hospitality can be. 

“You've obviously got a lot of different accolades, like Michelin and AA rosettes, and the vast majority of them are chef and kitchen focused, and within them there's always a little nod to wine,” he reflects. “It's only in very recent years that there's been this additional nod to service itself. And I think it's an art form, and it needs to be celebrated more.”

Coming from a family of celebrated hospitalitarians himself, who does he look to for inspiration?
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“One person that always comes to mind is a gentleman called Charlie Mellor who ran the Laughing Heart in East London,” he says. “And I think something that I have always admired about him is his passion for literal hospitality – making people feel good, and dialling up that experience from a front of house service point of view for anyone coming through the door, whether they're just there for a glass of wine, or coming to pick up a bottle to go, or there for the full evening.”

While the restaurant deserves every ounce of its success, Radford and the Montrose team don’t have plans to sit back any time soon. There’s a Beaujolais Nouveau celebration coming up in November – a jovial, annual party in the world of wine beloved by veterans and novices alike – followed by a celebration of the “shining lights of the UK wine scene” in mid-January, spotlighting eight winemakers.
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Timberyard has achieved plenty of accolades while marking Edinburgh as a leading city in contemporary food and wine culture – and Montrose looks likely to follow suit in the future, as it builds its own story, one dish at a time. What does he wish for the family’s legacy to be in the world of hospitality?

“There's so many good venues and operators in this city that I do feel like it's a special scene to be a part of,” he says. “And I hope that alongside some of these other operators, there's a little bit of a nod towards the importance of independent and locally run operator businesses.”

“And I do hope that our family and a number of other really strong independent operators that have integrity – I hope that the legacy is to acknowledge the work of these independents and make sure that there's always a strong presence for independent operators in this city, and a support of that from the public.”

Some of Edinburgh’s standout experiences are ready to explore on �������� this month.